The various ball joint manufacturers have different requirements, pay particular attention to torque values and the torquing sequence. Each front wheel makes use of both a lower and upper ball joint for maximum suspension and passenger comfort. The subject vehicle is a 2008 Ford F350 Super Duty 4X4 equipped with the power stroke engine however this general process covers many year model Ford Trucks. I hear a lot of do-it-yourselfers claim to do both sides in 2 or 3 hours; I don't believe it. AutoTrust Silver supplies a great selection of ball joint components at reasonable prices! First, remove the snap ring, then either beat it out with a hammer or use a ball joint press.
When the ball joints wear out, they will become loose and will rattle and knock as the suspension travels up and down over the road. Watch this video for more information. Unbolt the the larger two bolts holding the caliper bracket to the knuckle and pull the caliper still attached to the caliper bracket off the rotor. You will probably have to wiggle it around some to get it out. In normal circumstances, when the front ball joints fail, the vehicle will display a few symptoms that can alert the owner of the vehicle that a problem has occurred and needs to be addressed.
On one side, I was able to just tap the assembly with a hammer and then pull on it very hard and it came right out. Clean out the openings for the joints. Also check the lower hose fitting on the knuckle for rust. You will not have this issue if you buy the tool from ford as it will better protect the seal, but it costs hundreds of dollars. Separate the halfshaft from the hub, then remove the hand-tightened lower ball joint castellated nut.
While you have the outer hub out, it would be a good time to clean it up and grease the needle bearing that is part of the assembly. Disconnect the tie-rod end from the wheel knuckle. This might be a good time to place the tie rod back into the knuckle and straighten the knuckles front and center. Remove the lower ball joint nut. Ball joints in a vehicle are spherical bearings that connect the wheels to the suspension.
Remove the four nuts that hold the wheel bearing and hub assembly to the knuckle and remove the assembly. This vibration usually stems from the affected ball joint; that's either from the front or the left sides of the vehicle. Use a screwdriver if needed. They are available for the following Ford F250 Super Duty years: 2018, 2017, 2016, 2015, 2014, 2013, 2012, 2011, 2010, 2009, 2008, 2007, 2006, 2005, 2004, 2003, 2002, 2001, 2000, 1999, 18, 17, 16, 15, 14, 13, 12, 11, 10, 09, 08, 07, 06, 05, 04, 03, 02, 01, 00, 99. I was uncomfortable doing the top one with a pickle fork because of the camber-adjusting sleeve, so I just beat on the lower one and they both broke free. Separate the front wheel knuckle from the front suspension upper arm.
Failure to do this will cause severe wear to the non-metallic washer and cause damage to the wheel hub and bearing, the axle shaft seal and the axle shaft. You will have to hit on top and bottom and then from side to side. Brake caliper support bracket: 136 ft. Then cross-tightened the hub bolts and this will push the axle shaft in as it is tightened. Before beginning this project, thoroughly read the instructions that came with your replacement ball joints. I believe the procedure is the same for model years 1999-2004.
Remember though, that I am not a mechanic, this is just how I did it. Replace the o-ring on the outer hub and install the hub. When you have worn ball joints, it will cause the steering to wander to the left or right, causing the driver to compensate the issue. If the camber-adjusting sleeve changes position an alignment may be necessary. Learn how to install a lift kit yourself to save some green. Bad ball joints connect your wheels to the suspension.
It just slips on with no special tools required. This part is also sometimes called Ford F250 Super Duty Ball Joints. Position the main seal onto the axle shaft. I did the job with the help of Ford factory manuals and several other manuals, as well as other Internet resources. Remove the tie-rod end castellated nut. You then just pull the assembly out. Reinstall the knuckle into the housing and loosely install the nuts on the ball joints.
It is shown in the photo below. Make sure the u-joint moves freely but isn't loose. Place the wheel knuckle into a suitable vise. If necessary, tighten the castellated nut until the cotter pin can be installed. A properly greased and installed knuckle seal.