My pilot screws are out 1. Dark brown or almost black move the clip up one notch loweing the needles allowing a little less fuel to flow past the needle jet nozzle. Use this jet kit to unleash the extra power you should have from your aftermarket exhaust, flee flowing air filters or any engine mods you have made. I have a 4 into 2 into 1 header with all metal baffle muffler from Cycle Shack. It is properly secured and grounded, and the advancer does move freely. At this point, checking for air leaks would be a good next step.
Wound up using another set of carbs which carburated perfectly. Lastly, he balanced the carbs at idle. Also, when installing new exhaust or high flow air filters it is recommended to increase the size of your Pilot Jets. Adj the ideal screws on each carb to pull the same vaccum on all 4 keeping in mind you want the tack around 900 to 1000 rpms. I did this by loosening all of the screws that held the rubber boots to the air box on the intake side and the engine head on the downstream side of the carburetors. I then soaked them some more and forcibly through them. The slide is the piston.
So, before I put the carbs back on the bike, I figured I'd take a few pics and label them with the main parts, and a brief description of what you should see when cleaning them, just to provide a really basic starting point to convince others to get in there!! You need to remove them to clean them and look though them. I have talked to some Honda dealer mechanics that have at least 20 years of Honda service who state, they measure all the early Kei Hin carburetors from the lip. Filter is supplied dry but washable filtration material may be oiled for improved dust filtration. Anyone have a good procedure for adjusting and syncing carbs assuming that everything internally is correct and clean? Jet Height 28mm, Outer Diameter 5. I turned the pilot screws out 2 turns now 3.
Ultimately there are only 3 differences between the carbs. Ksharp I like vintage bikes because they take me away from the clutter of technology that I work with everyday and back to a simpler time of mechanical elegance and simplicity. I'm going to remove the carbs based on some other advice. Mine is measured from the lip at the bottom of the carburetor where the float bowl is attached. It seems like as time went by the engineers at Honda got more unsensible.
I got them from Siriusconinc. After i have the above adjustments made, i take the bike up to my friend who has an exhaust gas analyzer and he can adjust settings closer than the best tuner ever could. If the readings deviate more than 10 psi then there is a problem with the piston rings, valves or carbon build up. The earlier styles do not have that feature. It is so much easier to do this off the bike on a test stand. I also have not tried reading the plugs.
There's a lot of info out there maybe too much but a lot of it doesn't pertain to our older style carbs like bench syncing. You wouldn't believe some of the stuff I found going on in there. One question I have is the throttle stop screw what some people refer to the idle screw? I am interested in what you are saying. I install the carbs on the bike with the air clean installed. Makes synching your carburetor setup fast and easy! If it then behaves better at idle or just off idle you're about as close as you will ever get. You've got to see these things to believe it.
I would go for the 1976 carbs. I would venture to say that most of these 30 year old machines will have impairment to their idle circuits and will require a very thorough cleaning, perhaps contributing a cold blooded perception. Also, when installing new exhaust or high flow air filters it is recommended to increase the size of your Pilot Jets. I install the carbs on the bike with the air clean installed. If things are close it should have a little bit of a lope but not load up or starve out and die.
First, the intake side of the 2 carb: 1 -- Accelerator Pump Nozzle -- You should see fuel squirting out of this litle brass post into the carb under quick throttle application. When I opened up this carb for the first time. I first synched on the bench, and while running I was able the synch the carb with no issue. You should be able to do consistent plug chops then, and tell you if you need to make a pod shield. After soaking, I took an old toothbrush and cleaned them all off. I'm planning a similar setup on mine eventually.