If it had been done right, it would take about that much to remove, clean and regap all of them. I'm at 65,000 miles and would love to change my own out, I'm just afraid I might screw something up. The right 3 look like a breeze i am concerned about removing a wrong part trying to access the left side plugs. Seems I can't get anymore than 9 years out of Dodge cars no matter what I do or how much I spend. Rocker arms with roller followers were similar to those of the 2.
The lower clamps are harder to get at and you may need to jack the car up and have a jackstand in place. Read up on the problem on the make and engine problem and it seems Dodge has known about the problem with the seat all along. Stopped for gas after a 5 mile drive. That has no doubt been rectified but certainly contributed to the 2. Yeah the stealerships rape you, but on the other hand if you've never done this before, and I haven't either, it's a tough choice. But hey, someone else will eventually enjoy my next 40-50K spent at their dealership, or maybe I'll just buy some beater cars for the rest of my life.
Does it stall when the engine is hot or cold or warm?. I am not prepared to buy a new car right now. There is a single bolt that secures each of 3 coil packs on each side of the engine. If above, suspect vac leak, if low you have throttle body problems. Don't let these fools, tell you it is a snap.
Take off the idle air controller, check for free movement, and give it a good visual inspection to make sure it is clean. It seems that Chrysler thinks if you need to ask about torquing spark plugs, you shouldn't be doing it. Or in the manual that came with the truck, perhaps in the back. I'd be more inclined to just pull them at that interval and inspect them. The rear three can only be accessed b … y removing the intake manifold. When it was released in the 1993 Chrysler Concorde and Eagle Vision, the 3. Standing air pressure waves at the mouth of each runner were essentially in phase, while prior manifolds had waves out of phase at low speed, resulting in rumbling noises.
The plugs a … re around 13 dollars each and the amount of labor involved is incredible. For having so much room under the hood, you wold think they would have moved the engine closer to the front. Here are the supplies your goin to need. I forget all the fancy details, but it was working for them, but it was a more expensive process than our kind of brute force way. Remove the two screws on either side of the Tuning Valve and Runner Valve front of the manifold. .
Just reverse process to install and hand tighten plugs then torque wrench to 11-15ft lbs. You will need to loosen it a bit by prying with a flathead screwdriver. In the first generation, each of the two banks of cylinders had their own intake manifold and throttle body. A mechanics is at the party. Much of the removal and installation can be done by unscrewing or screwing in by simply manipulating the extension bars with your thumb and forefinger. This increased mounting stiffness compared to the 3.
I used the Champion spark plugs that comes from fabric. Very dissatisfied with Mopar - Diane S. No one stands behind their products anymore. I spent alomst 30 minutes, alone on the 2 back left plugs. . In the past, tuning the air tubes for a boost at one engine speed sacrificed power at another; this is similar to variable valve timing in that it avoids choosing one engine speed over another for performance increases. They determined the problem was caused by lack of oil pressure under stress.
The old set was a pain to get out because no anti seize was used. The V6 must have two of the engine mounts disconnected and the motor tilted to change 3 out of of the 6 plugs. The brake master cylinder is in the way, and Ighad to pull the 2 heater hoses, away from the body o nthe left side to tget to the back plug. I've always changed plugs and wires every 75k - 100k miles. There is absolutely no reason a well-maintained motor with only 70K should blow without warning. Upon restarting, valve seat dropped and it sounded like a transformer gang bang under the hood.
My mechanic specifically advised me to change the oil frequently and use nothing but high quality 5W - 20 due to sludge problems leading to engine failure. Do the work in a well-lighted, well ventilated , shaded site. Mark: The engine is prone to intake manifold gasket problems that can cause a rough idle. . . Spark plug Gapper Magnet to get plugs out what your going to do is pop the hood and remove the engine cover.
Information given in this video does not guarantee the desired outcome. They reflect the space we had to work with. I will be changing my spark plugs soon and need to buy a torque wrench. Everything is purchased by us! Should be some very long screws holding them on, but are pretty easy to remove. It helps to have a padded blanked to cover the fender and protect your body as you lean over the fender to do the work. Disconnect negative battery 1 cable. You should be able to lift up on the intake manifold to break the seal with the lower intake.